Short Stop // Howth, Ireland

With the sun yet to peek from behind the grey washed clouds after a light rain, the air was crisp and inviting as it wafted inland from the Irish Sea. The brisk smell of salt water called to mind distant memories of younger days. Standing on East Pier in the historic fishing village of Howth, my companion and I found ourselves staring at a friendly seal playing peek-a-boo with tourists and posing for pictures as its friends watched in the distance.

Our day’s adventure started with a 20 minute cab ride east from Dublin Airport. With energetic gab throughout, our illustrious driver Peter meandered through both the countryside and myriad topics of conversation ranging from pub recommendations to his familial connection to one of the country’s most famous athletes. With bated breath, we listened as he narrated what seemed to be his entire life’s story slathered in the richest buttery Irish accent. We learned that the village dates back to 819 when the Norse Vikings first invaded the local shores. Interestingly enough, Howth is currently home to one of the oldest occupied buildings in Ireland, the aptly named Howth Castle. The village is currently an affluent suburb of Dublin, while still maintaining its roots as a bustling fishing harbor and marina. We visited Howth Lighthouse, which was commissioned in 1817, and is one of the town’s many historical sites.

After exiting East Pier, we immediately stumbled upon a handful of pubs, restaurants and shops where Abbey Street intersects Harbour Road. O’Connells offered a much needed break from the chilly breeze in addition to one of the best pours of Guinness on the Emerald Isle. Brewed just 12 miles away, this pub was in same day shipping distance, which, as we learned from the ever-so-knowledgeable Peter, was the key to the perfect pint. To describe in words the smooth, creamy taste of a properly poured Guinness in Ireland would be a shortcoming on our part...it’s only to be experienced first hand and will set you back 5 Euro or less. Re-energized, we set out to explore more of what Howth had to offer. Over the next couple of hours, the two of us weaved in and out of the narrow hillside streets, peeking into quaint boutiques and souvenir shops filled with all things Ireland. In between, we examined the ruins of the original location of St. Mary’s Church (the earliest church at the original site was built by Sitric, King of Dublin, in 1042) and historic Howth Castle, which dates back to 1235. With such a variety of attractions, the glaring constant was the deep green grass that filled the surrounding landscape.

Winding down our day, we walked from Howth Castle to the middle of West Pier to each enjoy a fresh seafood plate at Octopussy’s Seafood Tapas. The small but vibrant dining area allowed for patrons to watch the cook prepare various dishes while enjoying a glass of wine (surprisingly no beer). The oysters and beer battered fish from the morning’s haul couldn’t have been fresher, and the chips (known as fries to us Americans) were fried to a golden crisp. A side of homemade Irish brown bread with butter rounded out our meal, and, ringing in at just under 30 euros, it was the score of the day.

Before making our way back to the hotel and ending our journey, we decided to indulge in another pint of that crisp, refreshing, dark roasted heavenly nectar. Again, I won’t even attempt to explain the authentic experience of capturing a Guinness in its natural habitat. It’s one that you must experience for yourself, and award winning Wrights Findlater Restaruant supplied that experience admirably. With so much to offer, Howth is a highly recommended destination to spend a day or even half a day while you find yourself in or around Dublin. So, go be adventurous! Sláinte!

Written by: P.